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  • velkommen til tromsø

    We've been in Tromsø for two weeks as of today, and what a whirlwind it's been. There's been so much to do and so many new experiences that I've barely had time to think, let alone sit down at the computer (let's not even talk about the state of my email inbox). We've been in our new apartment for a week and it's slowly (ever so slowly) creeping towards a cozy, habitable dwelling, but this has been the longest and most involved move of my life.

    I thought it'd be nice to give you a little bit of info about my new Norwegian home. Tromsø sits at 69º north - well above the Arctic Circle (and the entirety of Iceland, for a knitterly point of reference; Reykjavík sits at 64º north). That means it gets the midnight sun in the summertime (the sun doesn't set for two months) and polar night in the winter (the sun doesn't rise above the mountains in the south for two months). That dramatic difference between summer solstice and winter solstice means the days are already growing shorter at a staggering rate. When we arrived two weeks ago, sunrise was at 2:26 AM and sunset was at 11:08 PM. Today, sunrise was at 3:48 AM and sunset was at 9:45 PM. That's a difference of almost an hour and a half at each end - in two weeks! Still, it hasn't gotten totally dark yet and it won't for a couple more weeks. I'm looking forward to seeing the stars again (and eventually, the northern lights). You can check out sunrise and sunset times for the month of August here, if you're curious.

    Looking west to Kvaløya from Tromsø at 11:45 PM, August 7th

    The natural beauty of the landscape here is overwhelming. Tromsø's a city of around 70,000 (or 75,000 when university is in session) and most of it is situated on the island of Tromsøya ("Troms Island"). The Norwegian mainland lies to the east and a much larger island called Kvaløya ("Whale Island") lies to the west. Tromsøya is connected to the mainland and to Kvaløya by bridges. I can't even describe how happy it makes me to be living on an island surrounded by water and ringed by mountains. The weather can change at the drop of a hat and the light is often dramatic. I could probably stare at the sky and the light on the mountains all day.

    Tromsøya as seen from Storsteinen on the mainland, with Kvaløya at back

    At this point in the year, there's fireweed growing everywhere and it feels impossibly green and positively lush compared to drought-ridden Seattle. I love the scrappy subarctic birch forests, too. Even though the island of Tromsøya isn't that big, there are so many corners to explore. We spent some time down at the beaches on the southwest side of the island last weekend, and I've started exploring the network of trails that criss-cross different parts of the island. Everything feels so alive. I expect that will change as winter approaches.

    I think we're a few weeks away from really feeling settled in (we should be acquiring the essential pieces of furniture we still need this week, at the very least) but it's easier to put up with the hassles of moving when all of this is right outside your door. My classes start this week and perhaps I'll be able to get into a bit of a routine after the first week or two. And then, maybe then, I'll be ready to check out the yarn stores that are just a few blocks from our new place. For now, I have plenty to do (and plenty of WIPs that need working on, if we're being honest).

    I'm looking forward to sharing more of this incredible place with you all as we find our feet here.